Odeon of Herodes Atticus — How to Catch a Summer Performance

🏛️ The theatre itself

The Odeon of Herodes Atticus — known to Athenians simply as "the Herodion" — was built around 161 AD by the wealthy Roman-era Athenian philosopher and senator Herodes Atticus, in memory of his wife Regilla, who had died the year before. It was the third theatre of ancient Athens, after the Odeon of Pericles (5th c. BC) and the Odeon of Agrippa (15 BC). Originally roofed in cedarwood, with a three-storey stage building (skene), it seated approximately 5,000 spectators across 32 marble rows divided in two tiers.

It was destroyed in the Herulian invasion of 267 AD, lay in ruins for nearly 1,700 years, and was excavated through the 19th century by the Archaeological Society. The marble seating and orchestra were restored in 1952–1953, and from 1957 onwards the Odeon has hosted what is now called the Athens Epidaurus Festival — the country's flagship summer arts programme.

🎭 What you can see there

The festival programme is built every spring and runs roughly late May through early October. A typical season has 25–35 evenings at the Herodion alone, with another 30–40 performances at the ancient theatre of Epidaurus, the Peiraios 260 industrial-space venues in Tavros, and Lycabettus Theatre. The Herodion gets the headline events:

• Opera — the National Opera regularly stages a major summer production here (recent years: Verdi's Aida, Puccini's Tosca, Wagner's Tannhäuser).
• Ballet — the Greek National Ballet, plus international companies on tour. The Bolshoi, the Royal Ballet, the Paris Opera Ballet have all played the Herodion.
• Ancient Greek drama — productions of Aeschylus, Sophocles, Euripides, Aristophanes, often by the Greek National Theatre, occasionally translated into modern languages by visiting companies.
• Symphonic and choral concerts — the Athens State Orchestra, ERT National Symphony, and visiting orchestras (Berlin Phil, LSO, La Scala) play the Herodion almost every season.
• International artists — concerts by Maria Callas (1957, the legendary Norma), Frank Sinatra, Luciano Pavarotti, Sting, Andrea Bocelli, Tom Jones, Florence and the Machine, Patti Smith, Anastacia have all happened here. Sometimes one popular-music event a season slips into the calendar.

🎟️ Tickets — how it actually works

Pricing varies enormously by show: a Greek-language ancient drama might be €15–60, a National Opera production €25–150, a touring rock concert €50–250. Standing tickets do not exist — every seat is allocated on the marble row.

🪨 Which seats to actually buy

The seating is divided into the lower tier (rows A–H, the closest to the stage) and the upper tier (rows I onwards, separated from the lower by a 1.2-metre walking corridor). Practical advice from regulars:

👗 What to wear

There is no dress code — Greek summer dressy-casual is the norm — but practical considerations matter more than style:

• A light layer. Even in July, the night cool descends after 22:00 and the marble takes on a chill. A linen shirt or pashmina makes the difference.
• Closed shoes for the climb up. The walk from the entrance to the upper tiers is on rough stone steps. Sandals are fine; flip-flops a mistake.
• No umbrellas. If rain is forecast, the show is cancelled — the Herodion has no roof.

🕗 Practical evening logistics

• Show times: 21:00 in June and September, 21:00 or 21:30 in July and August. Doors typically open 19:30.
• Entrance: on Dionysiou Areopagitou, the pedestrian avenue under the Acropolis. The closest metro is Akropoli (Red Line, M2), 8 minutes' walk.
• Arrive 30 minutes early. Security is light but the climb to upper-tier seats takes time, and once the show starts late-comers are held outside until the first applause break.
• Bag policy: small bags fine; no large backpacks; no professional cameras; no food or alcohol from outside.
• Bar: The Greeka reviewer is right — there is no proper bar inside the theatre. Eat and drink before, plan dinner for after the show.

🍽️ Where to eat after

After-show dining is part of the experience and the surrounding neighbourhoods know it. Tavernas in Plaka (5 minutes' walk east) and Koukaki (5 minutes' walk south) stay open well past midnight on Herodion nights. For something memorable, try one of the rooftops looking back at the Acropolis from the Plaka side — Tsicolatos and the rooftop of Hotel Plaka are reliable.

🎯 FAQ

Can you visit the theatre during the day if there's no performance?

Generally no. The Herodion is closed to walk-in visitors when the festival is in season (the stage and lights need protection during rigging days). Outside the festival season (October–April), it is partially viewable from the Acropolis ticket-included paths above and below it, but you cannot enter the seating.

Are subtitles provided for Greek-language drama?

For most productions of ancient drama in modern Greek, yes — surtitles in English are projected on screens at the sides of the stage. For festival theatre productions in Greek, surtitles are increasingly standard. Check the listing on aefestival.gr for the specific show.

What if it rains?

Performances are cancelled. Tickets are refunded or transferred to a rescheduled date. Check your email and the festival website on the day; in practice rain is rare in July and August but possible in early June and late September.

Is it worth going if you don't know the programme?

Yes. The setting alone justifies the ticket. A reasonable strategy is to look at the season programme, pick anything that sounds tolerable to you, and go for the Acropolis-above-marble experience.